Performance Nutrition Resource for Endurance Athletes 

www. flickr .com
More Flickr photos tagged with triathlon

 

Skip Navigation LinksHome > Features > Universal bike light battery
Universal Bike Light Battery

This page describes the construction of a universal bike light battery with eight "C" cell rechargeable NiMh batteries. It is made from a Parmesan cheese container which is strong, lightweight, splash proof, dust proof, fits in a water bottle cage, and allows for complete serviceability of the batteries. High performance NiMh cells can raise the capacity of this unit to as much as 10,000 mAh.

#1 Parmesan Cheese #2 Empty Parmesan Cheese #3 Four C Cell Holder #4 Size N Panel Mount Coaxial DC Power Jack #5 Water Bottle Cage #6 Mold to fit #7 Solder connectors
#8 Bottom view #9 Solder wire to battery holder #10 Feed wire into container #11 Ready for batteries #12 Radio Shack rechargeables NiMh #13 Insert into container 14 Tight fit
#15 Open lid #16 Close lid #17 Install on bike #18 Side mount option #19 Better fit for the wires #20 Install on bike #31 Shopping List

      #1    Back to top  
An 8 ounce Kraft Parmesan Cheese container happens to fit into a standard bicycle water bottle cage very well. Run to your local supermarket (or perhaps your refrigerator) and pick up a container or two of this cheese.
      #2    Back to top  
Make several Italian dishes over the next few weeks (or empty contents in to another dish) and then clean out the cheese container. Remove the label or leave it on to confuse the competition.
      #3    Back to top  
You'll need a few more items to build this battery pack. First, pick up two battery holders capable of holding four C-cell batteries each. Make sure the battery holder arranges the cells two-by-two as pictured here. There are other battery holders that arrange all four batteries side-by-side. The side-by-side style will not fit into the container.
      #4    Back to top  
Purchase two connectors that are compatible with your bike light. In this case I used Size N Panel Mount Coaxial DC Power Jacks from Radio Shack. You'll want a connector that you can secure to a hole drilled into the container. The power jack pictured here has a nut and flange to make mounting in the hole possible.
      #5    Back to top  
The parmesan cheese container fits snug into a standard water bottle cage. However, you may wish to modify the container slightly to overcome any fitting issues unique to your bottle cage. In this case I need to shape the container to better fit the end of the bottle cage.
      #6    Back to top  
One suggestion to customize the container is to use a heat gun. The heat will soften the plastic so that you can mold it to fit your bottle cage. Be careful not to overdo the heat as the container may shrink or catch on fire. Burning plastic is not a welcome step in this project.
      #7    Back to top  
Solder lead wires to the connectors. I recommend installing braided 18 AWG wire as opposed to 20 or 22. The 18 AWG will reduce resistance from the batteries to your light and result in better light output. Use heat shrink tubing to prevent short-circuits.
Drill two holes in the bottom of the container. The size of the holes depend on the connectors you are using. Feed the leads wires and connectors into the container and secure with a nut from the inside. Long needle-nose pliers may come in handy when tightening the nut.
      #8    Back to top  
You'll find that the plastic in the bottom of the cheese container is thicker and more rigid than the sides. This is a nice feature as it makes connecting the battery to the light much easier. Pushing on the connector won't bend the plastic as much as it would if it were mounted on the side.
      #9    Back to top  
The battery holder will likely come with red and black leads. Remove these and solder the connector leads from step #7 directly to the battery terminals. Consider beefing up the stock terminals by soldering in some pieces of sheet copper.
      #10    Back to top  
Of course make sure you leave enough length in your wire to remove and install the batteries. In this example I am wiring two separate four-cell battery packs. Each battery pack will have a separate connector. This will allow me to run two lights from two separate battery packs, or I can run a single light and have one battery pack as a back-up. Having a back-up battery and light is important when you are out in the woods at night. All of the 24-hour races I've competed in require that riders have two completely independent lights.
      #11    Back to top  
Now you're ready to go. The battery pack is complete and ready to accept batteries.
      #12    Back to top  
I picked up Radio Shack rechargeable NiMh "C" cells for this bike light. Each cell is rated for 1.2V and 3000mAh. This is a good capacity for bike lights. Four of these cells connected in series gives you 4.8V and 3000mAh. With all eight cells installed, the battery pack has 6000mAh capacity - good for hours and hours of night riding. You can buy higher capacity cells for less money. See the recommendations section for more info.
      #13    Back to top  
The assembled battery holders slide into the container back-to-back. You may have to insert one pack at a time to get them both inside. Small variations in the battery holder dimensions and cell diameter make each build unique. You may also need to twist the battery packs to coil the leads wires for a better fit.
      #14    Back to top  
It is a tight fit, but that is the idea. This battery pack puts eight C cells into a container that is about the size of a small water bottle. Plus, the batteries are serviceable. Not many commercial bike light batteries are serviceable.
      #15  Back to top  
Install the lid. The lid on these cheese container flips open so that you can shake the cheese out. I thought of using that feature to run the wires out, but the battery pack wouldn't be as splash resistant or dust proof.
      #16    Back to top  
Snap the lid down and you're ready to ride!
      #17    Back to top  
The battery pack mounts with the lid facing down. The wire runs up the down tube to the handlebars where your light is mounted.
      #18    Back to top  
Here is a variation on the position of the battery connectors. In this case I mounted them on the side of the container. Depending on where your lights are connected to your bike or how you want to run the power wires, you may wish to use this location.
      #19    Back to top  
There is at least one benefit to this connector position. That is the wire that you solder to the connector extends across the bottom of the container rather than straight into the center and interfering with the space for the battery holders.
      #20    Back to top  
Connectors mounted on the side of the container give you a different position to run the power leads. Your decision.
    Recommendations
1.) Pick up some high performance rechargeable NiMh cells such as those at zbattery.com, batteryspace.com, or perhaps some of the Google ads on this page.

2.) If your battery packs move around inside the container, wad up some fabric and stuff it inside. (Makes sure it's dry and stays dry.) This will prevent the extra movement from damaging the wires.
      Props
Featured Instructable at Instructables.com, November 24, 2008.

Prize winner in the Instructables.com "SANYO eneloop Battery Powered Contest," December 2008.

       Shopping List      
(Prices in USD)
Item Name Link to Item Qty $ Each Subtotal
Grated Parmesan Cheese Local Grocery Store 1 4.99 4.99
Battery Holder, 4 "C" Cells surplusshed.com 2 0.40 0.80
Size N Panel-Mount Coaxial DC Power Jack radioshack.com 2 2.99 5.98
Rechargeable NiMh "C" Cell Batteries
Note: Less expensive and higher
capacity batteries are available.
See #1 in the recommendations section.
radioshack.com 8 8.50 68.00
Wire, solder, heat shrink tubing Local Hardware Store - - -
Grand Total - - - 79.77



       Comments